Designing with Mokume Gane
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Metals and their alloys Custom Rings Custom Pendants and Pins Designing with Mokume Gane

When designing with Mokume Gane there are a few more things to think about than when designing a piece of only one or two metals.

 

Metal combinations currently in use:

  • 22k Yellow Gold, Shakudo, and Sterling Silver
  • 22k Yellow Gold and Shakudo
  • 22k Red Gold, Shakudo, and Sterling silver
  • 18k Green Gold, 18k Red Gold, and Shakudo
  • Sterling Silver and Shakudo
  • Sterling Silver and Nickel Silver
  • Sterling Silver and Palladium
  • Sterling Silver, Nickel Silver, and Silicon Bronze

Once you have decided upon the combination of metals used in the Mokume Gane you need to decide if you like:

  • Just patterns
  • Twists and Patterns
  • Just Twist

 

You may have noticed that when a two metal Mokume Gane is patterned or twisted it looks quite bold, while the three metal Mokume Gane has a more organic flow.

Just click on the buttons or bold words for more drop down paragraphs and pictures

 

  • Special consideration for designing rings with Mokume Gane:
    • The liner:
      • A liner includes the inner part of the band and the two borders, one on each side of the band.  A liner is necessary for all patterned or patterned and twisted Mokume Gane as well as all combinations that include Shakudo, Nickel Silver or Bronze.  The liner along the inner part of the band is generally .5 mm thick, allowing the greater thickness of the ring to be solid Mokume Gane.  The width of the borders is variable and can be adjusted to suit your taste, from barely visible to a prominent design feature.  To choose which gold or silver alloy for the liner consider that sterling silver is the most economical choice although not the strongest and gold alloys such as 14k or 18k yellow, white or pink gold offer strength and a more valuable finished piece, suitable for wedding bands and sure to become an heirloom.
  • Pendants and Brooches
    • Pendants and brooches can utilize Mokume Gane in four different ways:
      • In the bail:
        • The bail is the part of the pendant that the chain goes through and can be made an integral part of the design by using Mokume Gane inlay.
      • In the bezel:
        • The Bezel is the part of the pendant or brooch that surrounds the stone, holding it down.  The bezel can be made from any combination of Mokume Gane.
      • Like a Frame:
        • Mokume Gane in any combination can be used to frame a gemstone, like this
      • As the main focus:
        • A pendant or brooch using a large piece of patterned Mokume Gane looks very unique and highlights this unusual technique well. Pictures coming soon.

Please also see the Photo Album for more ideas.

Of course other design applications apply, as found in

 Custom Rings and Custom Pendants and Pins

 
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Precious Metalsmith

Jewelry Design Studio

Chris Thornton

Copyright 2004

Last Modified : 07/11/08 11:06 AM