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• Finger Size:  One needs a ring-sizer to do this correctly.

  •  If you live too far away for us to size you , please get sized as accurately as possible by someone in the trade.  Keep in mind that we are able to make rings in quarter sizes, or even eighth sizes, though the ring-sizer tool only sizes half sizes so you'll have to use your imagination.  For example, if a size 7 feels too tight but a size 7 1/2 feels like it could fall off then you are a size 7 1/4.  If 7 feels just a hair tight then you are a 7 1/8.  Another finger sizing issue is big knuckles, which can be a problem for both men and women.  The trick is to measure a ring just big enough to push past the knuckle without too much discomfort and hopefully the size won't be so big that it is loose at the bottom of your finger.  To take the ring off past a big knuckle, pull the loose skin underneath the ring quickly before the finger has a chance to swell.  The use of a lubricant can also help.  In extreme cases it may be possible to create a hinged ring that need never go over a knuckle.  For those whose fingers change size depending on the season, time of month, or time of day it will be important to get sized a couple of different times.  If you'd like to take this responsibility on yourself we can send you a ring-sizer in the mail.

• Band width:  How wide the band or ring should be is mainly a matter of personal preference.

  •  Measurements are taken using millimeters.  When designing a Mokume Gane ring, the band width should be at least 6 mm, with the most popular width being 8 mm, we also have made bands in excess of 15 mm wide as well as bands 3 mm wide.  Ring bands may also be tapered, such as more narrow at the back and wider in front so both sides require a measurement such as 3 mm in back tapering up to 6 mm in front.  A sketch is helpful to determine where the slope should begin and end.

• Profile:  The profile of a ring is how thick the metal is around your finger.

  • For a ring without stones:  The profile is usually of uniform thickness.  This thickness is a matter of personal preference, however, most bands used for wedding ring or otherwise be of heirloom quality, should be at least 2 mm thick.  Thicknesses of up to 3.5 mm are easily tolerated by the surrounding fingers in most cases.  It is important to consider if the band should be flat of domed, or what is called half-round.  The cross-section of a half-round band is thick in the center and narrowed toward the edges.  The height of the dome is variable and for specific designs should be noted.  A low dome would be maybe 2 mm in the center and 1 mm at the edges, a higher dome 3 mm in the center and .75 mm at he edges.

  • For a ring with stones:  The height of the gemstones needs to be taken into account.  If the gem is to be set on top of the band with either prongs or a bezel, then the profile is of no real consequence.  If, however, a ring is to be made with a flush setting, setting the gem so that the top of the stone is level with the surface of the metal, the profile must be thick enough to accommodate the height of the stone plus about .25 mm in most cases.  Additional profile thickness needed could be just in front for a large center stone allowing the back to be less thick.

• Comfort Fit Bands:  The inside of the ring is slightly domed for comfort.

  • A comfort-fit band is one which has a low dome on the inside so the ring is only tight in the center and allows room for flexing the fingers. Most rings we make have at least a subtle comfort-fit in which the inside edges of the band are curved towards the outside edge so that the edges are not sharp.  Some comfort-fit rings actually have a dome in the interior.  Most people find this dome quite comfortable, though the additional thickness of the resultant profile is irritating to some.  For this reason it is important to try one on.  We always have sterling silver comfort-fit bands in whole sizes to try on down at the Market.

• Finger Shaped Bands:  Another comfort option is utilizing the fingers natural shape.

  • If you look at your fingers with the tip straight on back towards your knuckles, you'll notice that rather than being round, most fingers are actually more of a rounded square.   So, a square-ish ring with rounded corners is a more efficient use of space that may eliminate such problems as:

    • 1.  The discomfort of the fingers on either side of the ring.

    • 2.  Getting the ring over an enlarged knuckle

    • 3.  A round ring that cuts into the skin at the back of the finger.

    • 4.  A heavy gemstone that makes the ring swing from side to side.

    Or a finger-shape may be chosen just for a different and more modern look.